SIGNATURE DISHES

Spicy winged bean salad Five Chinese nuts fried Braised sea bamboo shoot with kale Stir-fried ostrich Grilled white sea bass

SETTING: This wooden house and pier over the Chao Phraya River is rustic, chaotic and partially open to the elements.

FOOD: This surprisingly modest-looking establishment serves up large portions of some of the best Thai food in Bangkok. Spicy winged bean salad is magnificent with lots of shrimp, nuts and red peppers, and is spicy and piquant. Five Chinese nuts, fried, gathers gingkos, cashews, water chestnuts, shrimp, Chinese plums and other ingredients for a fabulous, varied treat. Stir-fried ostrich with black pepper is super tender and melts in your mouth, and includes garlic, bellpeppers and a side of vegetables. Braised sea bamboo shoots with young kale brings long, thick, generous, bamboo shoots plus crunchy greens together in a surprisingly elegant sauce. Grilled whole white sea bass is moist and extremely tender, making it a winner. Or experiment with baked goose webs or duck's tongue stew. For dessert, try sticky rice with mango.

WINE: Diners are led to a refrigerator where they can select from a handful of bottles.

SERVICE: Very quick service by staff obsessed with catering to all needs.

PRICE: Two can have a feast for about 2,500 baht, without wine.