SIGNATURE DISHES

Rock lobster ravioli Siam tapas Prawn wonton Rock lobster trilogy Grilled sea bass Pla neung manao

SETTING: Renovated after the tsunami, the main dining area now has a much warmer atmosphere.

FOOD: Boathouse has long enjoyed the reputation of being in the top roster of restaurants in the kingdom. An appetiser of chilled mango soup starts things off very nicely and rock lobster ravioli is nothing short of sensational with a perfect balance of pepper and parmesan. Siam tapas comprises a medley of Southeast Asian cuisine in ample portions. Less successful, however, are prawn wontons, which can be lighter in oil and feature less garlic. Rock lobster trilogy - armagnac, thermidor and green curry flavoured - is an interesting and palatable combination and a good idea that may not appeal to all. Grilled sea bass certainly does and is done to almost perfection.

WINE: A well-organised list with 530 labels. The restaurant is the only one in Thailand to have been presented the Wine Spectator's Best Award of Excellence in 2006.

SERVICE: Staff handles a full house smoothly and enthusiastically.

PRICE: A couple dining without wine will pay about 2,000 baht.