SIGNATURE DISHES

Pan-fried crab cakes Baked oyster Rockefeller Shellfish bisque Blackened halibut White zinfandel braised lamb shank

SETTING: A rectangular structure with a renovated lounge bar, modern, white dining room featuring a wine cellar, and cigar lounge.

FOOD: Chef Edmund Kwan presents what he calls American cuisine focusing on cajun and creole cuisine from Louisiana and Texas. Beautifully presented, appetisers like Thai-inspired fried crab cake are innovative too; it incorporates roasted chilli aioli served with cold cucumber jelly and green salad to soothe the spiciness. A highlight is blackened halibut which has cajun spices mixed with maple syrup to create a mildly sweet seasoning. The dish is sprinkled with diced pancetta, but it is balsamic vinaigrette and vegetables like soya beans that contrast and bring out the fish's full flavour. Cajun jumbalaya rice has been adapted to local tastes, although the presence of andouille sausage, smoked chicken and prawns help restore some authenticity. For dessert, try warm apple and fig pie with vanilla ice cream.

WINE: Over 60 selections, half from America, and a decent range from Australia.

SERVICE: The shortage of staff compromises the speed of the service.

PRICE: A moderate meal for two, not including wine, costs about 1,900 baht.