SIGNATURE DISHES

Duck liver terrine with old port wine Phuket lobster medallions and orange panna cotta Buffalo beef filet with tomato-zucchini concasse

SETTING: A part of the Mayan-themed Aspasia Resort, Columns is a glass, stainless steel and polished hardwood affair.

FOOD: German-born chef Stephan Bouwman has to be commended for his commitment and dedication in the kitchen. The hardworking young chef's duck liver terrine with old port wine, shallot sauce with caramelised apple and brioche is an exercise in delicacy while his Phuket lobster medallions with green asparagus and orange panna cotta is a truly great combination of flavours. Somewhat heavier fare comes in the shape of buffalo beef fillet with tomato-zucchini concasse, fried herbs and 12-year-old balsamic sauce with rosemary potatoes. The meat dish is in danger of being overcome by the balsamic sauce but the tangy flavours of the concasse more than tempers things out. Toblerone parfait with almond cake rounds off the meal superbly.

WINE: Intelligently thought-out list with 40 labels to choose from.

SERVICE: Discreet and efficient, but still some way to go.

PRICE: An evening for two without wine will cost about 2,000 baht.