SIGNATURE DISHES

Crab salad Pan-fried escalope of goose liver Grilled Brittany lobster and langoustine Noisette of roebuck in bread crust

SETTING: Farang Ses's elegant and luxurious setting within the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi offers views of paddy fields, infinity pools, swaying palms and luxurious villas.

FOOD: Words can barely describe this gastronomic treat. While the menu is not massive, making a choice is difficult. Try pan-fried escalope of goose liver with caramelised sweet Thai mango in black pepper sauce or frothy lobster bisque flavoured with port wine for starters. A main dish highly recommended is noisette of roebuck in bread crust, quiche chutney, sautéed walnut gnocchi, mushrooms and Barolo jus; it is succulently tender, richly flavoured, subtly presented. For a lighter alternative, try grilled Brittany lobster and langoustine with home-made pasta and creamy Madeira sauce. For dessert, chocolate with spicy caramel and vanilla bourbon ice cream is a must.

WINE: Extensive wine list that spans a 2,000 baht to 20,000 baht price range.

SERVICE: Staff is extremely well trained in service, but a few inattentive moments lead to mistakes such as the reviewer having to get up to pour her own wine.

PRICE: A meal for two without wine will be in the 7,000 to 8,000 baht range.