SIGNATURE DISHES

Kabuli raan Bhatti da murg Fish tikka Paneer lawabdar Chic do piaza Prawn tawa masala

SETTING: The immaculate white-on-white interior glistens with mirrors and windows overlooking the street as well as lights.

FOOD: One of the best in Indian food in Bangkok with exotic flavours and textures and dazzling spices fused to meat and vegetables. Bhatti da murg is born in a tandoori oven, and arrives as two chicken legs dressed in the chef's 30 secret spices. Paneer lawabdar is cubes of cottage cheese cooked with tomato gravy bearing home-made spices, which goes great with a flat naan for scooping. Kabuli raan is a fabulous leg of a kid lamb, spiked with rum, pot-roasted in spices including cumin, cardamom and bay leaf, and then grilled in a tandoori, allowing the meat to delicately flake on your plate. Paneer do piaza offers cottage cheese cooked with onions, in an onion gravy, and is quite satiating. Do not leave without sampling gajarella for dessert: carrot julienne and dried fruit cooked in sweet milk.

WINE: A dozen commercial names from the usual countries, but finely chosen.

SERVICE: Languid, relaxed staff may appear dazed with the elaborate menu.

PRICE: About 1,200 baht for a meal for two without wine.