SIGNATURE DISHES

Mixed carpaccio Rack of lamb Mixed bruschetta Pork ossobucco Variety of pastas Australian lamb cutlets

SETTING: Situated in the heart of Phuket, this innovative and charming eatery is made up of a couple of shophouses featuring an atmosphere redolent of old Italy in its intimacy.

FOOD: Owner Gianni Ferrara is obviously a master at training staff. He greets diners in style while his Thai crew get on with producing genuine Italian cuisine based on recipes from Campania in Southwest Italy. La Gaetana's mixed bruschetta is among the best in Phuket. A portion of lasagne chosen from the day menu is surprisingly light and fluffy with a ricotta cheese and pork, beef and egg filling. Medium-rare Australian lamb cutlets with sautéed vegetables are creditable and wholesome. Between dishes a sorbet is served. In keeping with Phuket city's history, plates are based on attractive tin table mats. Gorgonzola with caramel rounds off the meal.

WINE: From 800 to 6,500 baht a bottle, the wine list, mostly Italian, is extremely competent. Diners can choose from a map of Italian wine regions.

SERVICE: Efficient, attentive and purposeful. Gianni's staff is a credit to him.

PRICE: A good meal minus wine will cost about 1,200 baht.