SIGNATURE DISHES

Foie gras Seafood bouillabaisse Duck a l'Orange Rack of lamb Sole Veronique Souffles

SETTING: A purpose-built restaurant sitting on the banks of the Ping River, Le Crystal with its floor-to-ceiling glass facade, dripping chandeliers and gleaming surfaces befits its name.

FOOD: Well into its second year, its teething problems are firmly in the past and Le Crystal serves haute French and international cuisine at exactingly high standards. A memorable treat is Brobdingnagian Atlantic scallops served with a heady mixture of garlic, parsley and parmesan. Alternatively try the seasonal plussize fresh oysters. Recommended mains are seafood bouillabaisse with a liberal mix of fish, prawns, scallops, mussels, crabs; a lightas- a-feather fillet of john dory with potato puree in light saffron sauce; or if your wallet allows, tender-as-butter 3,900-baht grilled Japanese kobe sirloin. For dessert, try hot Grand Marnier or chocolate souffle.

WINE: An impressive cellar offers some reasonable wines but caters more to the connoisseur with vintage and specialty wines. Also Champagnes, dessert and ice wines.

SERVICE: Pleasant attentive and competent staff despite the slight language problem.

PRICE: A meal for two without wine costs not less than 4,000 baht.