SIGNATURE DISHES

Fresh grilled mussels Seafood platter Home-cured beef carpaccio Chateaubriand for two Chicken breast in lemon butter sauce

SETTING: A small restaurant down a busy soi with a surprisingly upmarket setting.

FOOD: New owner Bruno Begni acquired the restaurant from Helmut Zimmermann and continues to serve excellent standard fare while meeting and greeting every diner in the European manner. The menu is not large, but there are enough choices. Salmon dishes predominate, with examples in both appetisers and mains. For a starter with a difference, smoked salmon on hot potato cakes (roesti style) with sour cream and horseradish is excellent. Chateaubriand for two is always superb and cooked faithfully to order, cut at the table and at 650 baht represents a culinary bargain. Fondues are also offered. Portions are such that it requires a healthy appetite to contemplate dessert.

WINE: Very limited but inexpensive choices with most bottles between 950 and 1,200 baht.

SERVICE: Uniformed waiters are very well versed in fine dining etiquette and perform their duties pleasantly with quiet efficiency.

PRICE: An enjoyable dinner for two, without wine, can be had for less than 1,200 baht.