SIGNATURE DISHES

Terrine de foie gras, Warm goat cheese salad, Prawns with tomato salsa and chillies, Slow-cooked lamb shank, Snapper in crab crust

SETTING: Located at Nirvana place, the restaurant has its own bar for pre-prandial drinks. The setting is classical in style.

FOOD: The owner of Mata Hari is Louis Noll. until recently he was the Bailli of the local Chaine des Rotisseurs, suggesting that his qualifications as a restaurateur are more than adequate. It also helps that his wife is in charge of the kitchen and their combined influence shows. The food is outstanding and served in generous helpings that belie its classical origins. Dutch green pea soup as an appetiser is an excellent starter with no excessive herbing and spicing to mask the natural flavours of the ingredients. Whitebait is delicately cooked in a light batter that allows the diner to appreciate all the tastes on offer. Lamb fillet steak with grainy dijon mustard is a beautiful combination of succulent meat and a mustard that does not overpower the meat. Mata Hari’s expertise in maximising the potential flavours of a given dish meal is exemplified in its rock lobster with snow peas in vermouth cream sauce where the sauce also acts as a catalyst for an unexpected taste experience.

WINE: An excellent wine list with interesting alternatives in New World wines that beautifully complement the food on the menu.

SERVICE: The staff speaks excellent English and looks after the customers with a confidence that is rare in most restaurants in the region.

PRICE: Dinner for two without wine costs about 1,800 baht.