SIGNATURE DISHES

Tartar of yellow fin tuna Nori confit of Tasmanian salmon Steamed snowfish with truffles and soy Char-grilled wagyu sirloin

SETTING: Spacious restaurant overlooking a private beach and the Gulf of Siam. Two levels with a bar/cocktail area.

FOOD: Australian chef Matthew Woolford has worked all over Asia. He takes Western ingredients and presents them using modern Asian techniques. Tasmanian salmon, for example, is presented as a nori confit with mangosteen and Korean kim chee dressing. Steamed snowfish, cooked wrapped in Chinese cabbage leaf with truffle, kaffir lime and soy is superb, while braised lamb shank cooked for four hours comes with crisp beancurd, roasted oyster mushrooms and miso foam, a Japanese version of a very traditional Western meat. The lack of knives does not present a problem, with the wagyu beef falling apart with gentle pressure from the chopsticks. The cuisine though modern Asian is plated in a Western manner.

WINE: A comprehensive cellar with many bottles around 2,000 baht.

SERVICE: The service staff is outfitted in evening dresses and they have been chosen for their personality and then groomed and trained.

PRICE: Dinner for two costs less than 3,000 baht, without wine.