SIGNATURE DISHES

Crabmeat and minced pork stuffed crab shell Baked scallop with garlic butter Banana bud salad Deep-fried sea bass with lemongrass salad

SETTING: A large Thai sala with three enclosed air-conditioned dining rooms in a terraced garden with a delightful sea view.

FOOD: Although the presentation has been given a slight Western look with the choice of matching yellow chinaware the taste is unquestionably Thai. The menu is mainly seafood ranging from smoked salmon appetisers to crabs, clams, fish, prawns and oysters. Sweet and sour soup with ginger and salmon is delicious as is banana flower salad, salmon satay, and deep-fried crabmeat with pork and herbs cooked then stuffed back into the shell. For chicken massamun, the potatoes are carved rather than simply cut. The selection of ice creams and desserts is limited and uninspiring. The chef succesfully blends tradition with creativity to a point, but has not discovered the best that can be done with local ingredients.

WINE: The list has a choice of just three reds and three whites.

SERVICE: Attentive but with limited English skills.

PRICE: A meal for two costs 800 to 1,200 baht, without wine.