Cafe Lenotre

SETTING

Modern surroundings within a long and narrow, high-ceilinged dining area. The use of glass and light-shaded wood accents amid stylish table settings bridges the restaurant’s concept of fine dining coexist-ing with a gourmet bakery. Well-placed partitions create a number of small, almost semi-private nooks. A good amount of comfortable outdoor seating is available.

FOOD

The menu does not list appetisers as such but rather begins with items under the heading of “soup and salad” followed by what are termed “light dishes”, the latter of which are versatile and can be thought of as either a lunch entree or perhaps an appetiser for a hearty dinner. French country-style salad with duck gizzard confit and preserved tomato adroitly blends savoury confit, pungent tomato and slightly astringent greens to create a fine prelude. Pan-fried beef tenderloin with bearnaise sauce and parsley-spiced croquette potatoes is, along with rack of lamb, one of the menu’s heaviest entree choices but is still nevertheless not so heavy as to be overwhelming – an important consideration when dessert offerings such as volute chocolat await. This cupola of chocolate mousse atop a biscuit is served with tea creme brulee, green tea ice cream and vanilla sauce; the colours alone set against a white plate make this an appealing creation. The desserts are a specialty here and should not be missed.

WINES

Roughly a dozen wines, primarily French with an Italian and Australian here and there, as well as Moet et Chandon champagne are on the list.

SERVICE

Cordial and watchful staff, though some members’ knowledge of the menu and ability to provide elaboration may prove limited.

PRICE

Not exorbitant. A dinner for two including dessert can be enjoyed for 1,500 to 2,000 baht, and a light lunch for less.

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