Chi

SETTING

An eclectic, fanciful, avant-garde restaurant with animals and flowers painted on the wall and a mounted, stuffed, white-feathered bird on display. Various rooms have unique decor including overlapping, empty picture frames, slices of mirrors, feathered boas and other zany items.

FOOD

Fusion leaning on Japanese barely describes the elaborate, delicious and wildly inventive meals on this diverse menu. Rocket salmon with jaewjaew sauce places raw salmon around rocket leaves with a tangy sauce for a good, cold start. Silver cod tortilla, however, is the ultimate in wizardry with warm fish and other ingredients stuffed into soft tortillas, amid pools of mustard. Spicy wasabi octopussy salad is an excellent, nostril-flaring dish big enough for two people to enjoy its cucumbers, tomatoes, sprouts, onions and other greens. Seared bonito, swimming in apple mustard sauce, plunks wonderful circles of raw, cold fish in an indescribable, almost nutty-flavoured dressing. Apple duck in tamarind sauce is also fantastic and lays well-cooked slices of duck and fruit in a not-too-sweet tamarind gravy. Other choices emphasise dishes with a Japanese origin twisted into sensational, sometimes spicy, sometimes Italian, sometimes out-of-this-world meals which are tasteful and nutritious. Dessert is more modest with chocolate cake a mere cupcake-sized, hot and soft, fudgy splendour. Sherbet is nice, very sweet and generous in a high cocktail glass.

WINES

A good spread of reds and whites representing all the main countries and regions, including a delightfully smooth Kendall-Jackson cabernet shiraz.

SERVICE

Prompt, courteous, active staff arranges everything with a neat, organised flow to quietly create a gentle cascade of dishes throughout your meal.

PRICE

For two, about 2,000 baht without wine.

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