Govinda

SETTING

Cosy and charming, this small, twostorey restaurant offers outside dining in a front courtyard. The interior is more graceful and has tranquil, intimate seating in a comfortable setting.

FOOD

Although originally established in 1999, Govinda was sold to new owner Stefano Zambon in 2004. This is a restaurant vegetarians flock to to marvel at its soy meat dishes which include no meat but mimic chicken, shrimp and sausages. Here one can explore how elaborate vegetarian cooking can be and the deliciousness gained from healthy fare. Avocado salad bursts with rocket and olives and plenty of sliced, soft avocado, producing a dreamy creaminess. Govinda salad is similar, but dominated by spinach and potatoes, and is huge enough for two. Melanzane parmigiana is a simple and adequate baked eggplant dish with tomato sauce, mozzarella and parmesan. Much better is pollo piccante, or soy chicken in a robust tomato sauce with potatoes and spinach; it does not taste like chicken, but is scrumptious anyway. Mixed cheese is a big plate of five different samples ranging from mild feta to much sharper challenges.

WINES

Some interesting Italian wines, including a slightly sour, red Lapaccio primitivo salento 2003 which nevertheless blends OK with the food’s spices and tomato-based sauces.

SERVICE

Easy-going staff is friendly, speaks Thai, English and Italian, and is efficient in ensuring all your needs are met.

PRICE

For about 1,500 baht, two people can sample good vegetarian creations, without wine.

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