Grand Palace

SETTING

An uninteresting building’s entrance eventually gives way to the bright, functional interior of this modest restaurant which offers framed calligraphy and other Chinese touches on its walls. Comfortable dark pink chairs add to the informal atmosphere.

FOOD

Basic, standard Cantonese food is available here with some sparkling surprises, thanks to cooking that tries to go beyond the usual cliches. Hot hors d’oeuvre duo is a very good way for two diners to begin, and comes with a delicious mix of sprouts, scrambled egg, crab meat and big, chewy chunks of shark’s fin, plus several cylindrical pods, each comprised of seafood wrapped in a sweet banana fritter. Steamed sesame chicken is warm, boneless and quite nice. Stewed bamboo pith with mixed vegetables is flavourful and also includes carrots and mushrooms amid the greens. Steamed red garoupa in soysauce is a delicious, tender, light, fish covered with ginger and fennel. Abalone, scallops, squid, lobster, prawns and other seafood are available along with beef, pork and chicken dishes. A dozen different desserts beg for attention, including some made with bird’s nest, gingko, melon and other popular ingredients.

WINES

No wine list but a refrigerator near the front door displays some humble reds and whites.

SERVICE

Poor English-language skills are softened by an eagerness to please, including staff who stands too close to diners.

PRICE

With 2,500 baht, two people can pleasantly dine, without wine.

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