Khum Khantoke

SETTING

A Disney-like vision of ancient Chiang Mai with musicians, fountains and Lanna-style teak buildings. The restaurant itself is a cavernous room with a stage while diners sit on floor cushions.

FOOD

A set meal to share served on a Lanna-style wooden khantoke tray offers the chance to sample popular northern cuisine, though the food is considerably milder than what you might find elsewhere. Waiters hover to refill your bowls as needed and succulent fried chicken and kaeng hang lay (northern pork curry) subtly flavoured with ginger are definitely worth a few extra portions. Traditionally fiery nam prik num (green chilli dip), eaten with the ubiquitous sticky rice, has been toned down to suit sensitive Western palates but nam prik ong’s blend of minced pork, tomato, onion, garlic and chilli still packs a punch. As the meal gets underway, so does the entertainment. Seven dances are performed based on everything from aspects of northern hill-tribe life to episodes from the Ramakien, one of Thailand’s most revered literary works. The evening finishes with the ramwong, a folk dance in which diners are invited to join on stage.

WINES

A handful of unambitious Italian reds and a couple of whites are the limit of the wine list, though a decent Sicilian Mandrarassa is only 1,300 baht.

SERVICE

Attentive staff is on hand to refill your bowls and serve drinks, though limited English spoken.

PRICE

The set price of 350 baht may seem a bit steep for what essentially is very basic Thai food. However, it is the show that is the real draw here especially for foreign visitors.

4

4

5