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To paraphrase, no menu is an island. Fine fare takes those
with culinary skill to conceive and then prepare it, as well
as pleasing sites at which to serve it. These requirements
are met on Phuket island, says Sam Wilkinson.
Some visitors to Phuket have been known to confess that they
harboured at least one preconception about this popular tourist
destination – that its local restaurants and hostelries
could not likely match up to worldwide tourist standards,
or at the very least, those of Bangkok. Rest assured, however.
Phuket island is large enough, both in character and land
size, to absorb different types of cuisines, lifestyles and
tastes that the island – fast becoming a health-tourism
as well as a retirement hub – has long since learned
to cater to food lovers’ every whim. Presently, Phuket’s
culinary scene is quite engaging to watch, with many ambitious
and inventive young chefs surpassing fine diners’ expectations
in the higher-echelon eateries. There are as well food and
wine columns in the local press and glossies. Indeed, a culinary
renaissance appears underway.
Yet dining out in Phuket doesn’t necessarily have to
be highbrow to impress. In fact one could say that the food
experience on Phuket is a beautiful example of the Thai people’s
ability to adapt. Take the bustling tourist town of Patong,
for example. There are dining options ranging from humble
street-stall noodle stands, through to ubiquitous fastfood
outlets, to fashionable coffee/cake outlets, and on to pub
grub and Italian, German, Austrian, Israeli, French food outlets
– all on one block alone.
As for Phuket city, recently upgraded from town status, this
conglomeration of chaotic road junctions and wildly varying
architecture has dining options that reflect its very look.
The city is a veritable kaleidoscope of Chinese, local and
Malay cuisine – all in all, a more varied experience
than anything the west coast of the island has to offer, with
the notable exception of the inevitable fast-food outlets
satisfying local teens and burgerhungry Caucasians. Otherwise,
Phuket city possesses many culinary nooks and crannies worth
looking for, especially near the two main markets – the
day market on Ranong Road and the night market near Robinson
store. The old town is especially rich in eclectic and unusual
eateries. One word of caution for the visitor: Phuket city
can be difficult to navigate for the tourist and newcomer.
Best to hire a car with a driver as there is little or no
after-dark public transport around the city or to the west
coast.
For those who choose accommodation outside Patong or Phuket
city, here are a few hints for the adventurous diner. One
of the first prerequisites for the independent-minded visitor
to the island is to find a way to get about. One can simply
charter a tuk tuk taxi for the evening or hire a motorcycle
(not recommended) or a car. If you are staying in the southern
part of the island (Rawai/Kata), do avoid the central artery
heading north which holds little interest for most visitors
and can be a strangled, red-light-to-red-light mini -version
of Bangkok. Better to hug the wonderfully scenic west coast
road and stop where you wish. Lunch can range from down-home
eateries in the Kata/Karon area to a full-on seaview gourmet
experience at one of the top-end hotels. As a general rule,
seafood is wonderfully fresh at Phuket’s beachside restaurants
and opting to eat at a more basic eatery can be as delighful
an experience as eating at a top-end hotel and of course this
weighs in at a fraction of the cost.
Those electing to stay in Patong, where for some the culinary
scene has already grown a little overcrowded, would do well
to motor just north of the town on an evening and choose among
the coastline’s many eateries, some of which are reviewed
in these pages. Visitors staying at the Laguna Complex –
itself hosting some of the most intriguing restaurants on
the island – are likewise recommended to take a short
trip towards Cherng Talay where the broad choice of restaurants
guarantees that there is something for everyone. From hotel
fine dining to road-side stalls, from Thai to international
fare, visitors to this isle of good eating will not be disappointed.
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