Summer Palace

SETTING

Glamorous, swanky and bathed in gold, black and cream colours, this is a formal, elegant restaurant exuding wealth. Chinese stylised bats illustrate the gold and green carpet, and menus are encased in silk.

FOOD

Big portions of sophisticated, finely crafted Cantonese cuisine blend taste, visual presentation and ingredients. Chilled kelp with shredded chicken and sesame is an excellent introduction, with lots of sliced cold meat on squiggles of green seaweed, dabbed with sesame oil. Deep-fried whitebait with spicy salt presents fried slivers akin to deep-fried onion rings with a fishy aftertaste. Peking duck is served with impressive ceremony by meticulous waitresses who wear surgical rubber gloves while trimming the delicious skin which they wrap for you in 20 separate pieces of Chinese pancakes. Stewed assorted vegetables is a satiating, simmering, big clay bowl bobbing with mushrooms and greens, and covered with a fragrant sauce of dried scallops. Fried rice noodles and shrimp is also tasty, presenting a sesame-smeared dish laced with a mild XO chilli sauce. There is also a good selection of Chinese desserts.

WINES

An impressive list includes plenty of French, plus bottles from Australia, California and elsewhere at a range of prices.

SERVICE

Silent, graceful staff pummels diners with kindness by refilling glasses, changing plates and providing other support.

PRICE

About 2,200 baht allows two people to enjoy fine cuisine, without wine.

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