The Andaman

SETTING

A double L-shaped room allows separate areas depending on your mood, amid dark wood decor, grey walls with off-yellow patches and soft music. The restaurant’s slogan is a casual dining experience.

FOOD

Surprisingly good seafood and Germanic dishes, but others are less exciting. Andaman salad tempts with big pineapple slices, thin strips of ham and cheese, plus onions, crab sticks, lettuce and tomato but Andaman special dressing is ordinary. Smoked salmon slips in some thin but very tasty pieces of Norwegian fish along with slices of hard boiled egg, a bit of caviar and a cluster of capers. Mushroom saute makes another good appetiser with plenty of hot, sliced fungus in chopped garlic. Grilled salmon is a huge, thick, charcoal-grilled piece, and comes with whipped spinach, though its pile of peas, corn and cubed carrot is reminiscent of the frozen food bag variety. Pan-fried trout is very, very good and has all the adventure and freshness of a fish cooked while camping out. The house speciality is fondue, with beef, seafood and cheese among the selections available. A nice choice of cakes and ice creams are on offer for dessert.

WINES

Mostly Australian and Californian, reds also pour in from France, Italy, Chile, South Africa and Thailand, with a similar but less extensive spread of whites.

SERVICE

Quiet, earnest staff dressed in black are anxious to help, and frequently hover nearby.

PRICE

Less than 2,000 baht brings some good food to two people, without wine.

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