Tidbit Treasure

SETTING

A simple, roomy restaurant with an open kitchen across from the cinema of Siam Discovery Center that is popular with youthful patrons and office workers, and crowded on weekends. Glass-topped white tables lit by recessed wall lighting sit on a tiled floor among empty birdcages, orchids, hanging lights and large gold and red squares and rectangles of Chinese art.

FOOD

The menu is Cantonese leavened with Shanghai dishes; most selections are available in small, medium or large portions. This is a larger version of the Sukhumvit 33 original, which is still open. Start with dim sum (over two dozen varieties available), then on to Hong Kong-style roast suckling pig, crisp but a bit fatty, though lovely. Stir-fried turnip cakes with chives are pedestrian, but seafood soup with tofu and egg whites is delicious, spiced with cilantro, radish, chillies and garlic, with big chunks of shrimp. For vegetarians, deep-fried tofu with garlic and chillies lingers warmly on the palate. Aromatic crispy duck is slightly dry, a half-duck steamed then fried in corn flour, shredded and served with sweet sauce, scallions and pancakes. Steamed snow fish with black olive sauce is superb, the fish tender and light. For dessert, sesame dumplings in ginger is an excellent choice.

WINES

No wine list, and a limited beer selection. Shao Hsing Chinese wine available by the glass or bottle, and house red and white by the glass.

SERVICE

Bilingual staff is courteous but reserved, quick on order taking but slow on follow-up.

PRICE

Two can eat well for under 1,200 baht.

7

2

6