Tony Lynn

SETTING

A small, L-shaped room in pale, green-and-white colours, this is a modern, modest, generic-looking place in a residential building tucked away at the end of a dismal soi near the Rama 9 bridge.

FOOD

Despite the simplistic setting, some delightful food emerges from the small kitchen with an experimental creativity that could be described as Chinese fusion food. Steamed dumpling stuffed with Chinese chives is wonderfully swollen with greenery, and a must-eat starter. Roti spring rolls are fried and shock with an unlikely interior of ham, cheese and chicken which may sound insane in a spring roll but is very good. Roast duck salad is big enough for two and almost dessert-like because the meat amid lettuce and slices of cantaloupe and oranges is bathed in a candied-flavoured orange sauce that tends to be too sweet. Sauteed fillet of pork with black pepper sauce comes as nicely fried steaks with lots of pepper, plus a separate plate of broccoli, carrots and other veggies. The menu includes nearly a dozen pages of familiar Chinese dishes which, given this chef’s ability to conjure a bit of weirdness, may be beyond your usual assumptions. Seafood and casseroles also compete with pork, chicken, hot pots and other choices. Desserts are not extensive but need to be tried for an interesting end to the meal.

WINES

A handful of bottles in a refrigerated showcase is suitable for these casual meals. The red French La Tour Chateau Grand Moulin 1999 is nice.

SERVICE

Well-meaning, helpful staff lacks English- language skills but clusters around to sort out any needs and is friendly and capable.

PRICE

For little more than 1,000 baht, two people can enjoy an unusual meal, without wine.

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