Witch’s

SETTING

At ground level stop at the cosy separate bar before heading upstairs to the dining section. There, wicker and white linen, paintings in ornate gilt frames and wood flooring that creaks a bit from humidity bring to mind days of empire and languid times in a tropical posting.

FOOD

The menu reflects an approach combining a seafood and grill in the European style with aspects of modern British cuisine. Thus for example under soups the diner finds in addition to bouillabaisse and consomme both Stilton cream soup and Scotch broth. As an oyster bar, Witch’s oyster platter is a good way to sample five preparations comprising Rockefeller, Kilpatrick, mornay, with sauvignon sabayon on grapes and with spicy tomato and vodka dressing. The restaurant imports oysters from round the world, though local oysters are available too. For an entree, should something along the lines of poached Phuket lobster on crispy rice gallettes and sweet peas served with choice of sauce not match the diner’s mood, then simple steak and kidney pie might do.

WINES

Taken seriously here with all major regions well represented. A daily happy hour from 5pm to 8pm in which not only single glasses but also carafes come in at two for one provides fine value.

SERVICE

Staff is presented with something of a challenge owing to the multi-level situation containing separate dining areas but does well in remaining attentive and watchful.

PRICE

Dinner for two is less than 2,000 baht.

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